Zihuatanejo, Mexico

The Bahia (Bay) of Zihuantanejo is one of the best anchorages along the Mexican Pacific coast. It is a beautiful bay, not huge by any means, but large enough for cruise ships to call on the port. The Sierra Occidental drops right into the Pacific, and by nature's work this bay was created

Away for Thanksgiving

I have been enjoying my stay in Mexico. San Miguel de Allende is a town for the arts: dance, theater, visual art, music, etc. There is always something going on at the plaza, or Jardin, in front of the Parroquia, or parish church, in the center of town. I have been doing a lot of artwork, making contacts with galleries, writing, and networking. I have also been able to do some virtual consulting work. Have not had a lit of free time to just have fun, but what the heck, my work is fun.

I am currently in Zihuatanejo, Mexico for the week of Thanksgiving. A woman in San Miguel was driving over to Zihua for the holiday and put a note on the local chatline for anyone wanting to come along. I responded, and it turns out that I was the only one that could travel on her dates. Kathie and I drove here on the 19th. Seven hours on the road, sharing the driving and talking alot, it seemed to pass rather quickly. It was a beautiful drive through the Mexican countryside and mountains to the Pacific coast. We stopped in Patzuaro for a quick sandwich and chips. Outside of Morelia was a great birding wetland associated with a large lake. I think that I will try to organize a birding trip there out of San Miguel in a few weeks.

So what about Zihua? Well, it is an old fishing village on the Pacific Coast southwest of Mexico City. About 30 years ago, the Mexican government built a resort area about five miles up the coast and called it Ixtapa. Today Ixtapa is large resort area with lots of big hotels, restaurants, and golf courses. I was over there today and found the general atmosphere rather not to my great liking. I much prefer the atmosphere of Zihua (except for when the cruise ships port for the day and all the people come ashore to shop and look at the sights.) So today I went into the cneter of town (Zihua), across the little slough that is the main harbor for most of the panga fleet (little 26' open fiberglass craft that are seen all over the world.). I went there to gather sketches for possible paintings. Wow, was there a lot of stuff to work with. It would sure be a lot easier to capture all this with a camera, but where is the challenge. When I was in architecture we were not allowed to use a camera for the city centers project and that's what I am doing now en pleine aire work.

Trying to drum up a fishing trip. Can't seem to find anyone to split the cost. Darn-it. Also don't know about a dive trip. The visibility isn'r but about 5 meters. might just do some snorkrling and free diving around some of the nearshore rocks. There is some coral and a lot of small fish, but nothing like then Red Sea or Belize.

Consulting work: ups and downs

Last week I was told that I will not be returning to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia to work on the Aramco UPDC project. That is two of us learning designers who are not returning and I am sure there will be more. I am convinced that it is a business decision, based on the meager output of the team this past year due to uncertainties around SME input and availabilities, organizational structure, management, and leadership. I believe that upper management expectations were not met, so the thing to do was to reduce manpower and reorganize and alter expectations for the coming year. Perhaps there will an opportunity to return when they get their act together, but in the meantime, I have clients to find and service. There are opportunities out there and I will find them. Networking and research are the two most important activities right now, and I have been doing a lot of that since I was told that I was not coming back. Here in San Miguel I am also tempted to complete the illustrations that I started when I first arrived, but I need to focus. There will be time to do art again. I am confident that income producing work will result if I continue to expand my network. This is the life of a consultant - up and down :)

Exciting sunsets on the rooftop terrace.

I find the rooftop terrace of Maricela's Guest House such a great place to work on my artwork. From the terrace I have a wonderful view of San Miguel de Allende. I am in a place very close to the center of town on the fourth floor, so the panorama is 360 degrees. The Parroquia (main church in town) is about two blocks north. East is up and over a small mountain covered with centuries old homes of Spanish architecture. South looks over a similar array of structures. Finally, west is the view out into the valley and in the distance are two mountain ranges. That is where the most beautiful sunsets occur (obviously). Last night was one of those special times. Maybe it was because it was the Dia de los Muertos, and all the deceased were kicking up dust into the clouds as they came to the dinners placed out for them in almost every household and business in town. Whatever, the sky evolved into absolutely the best sunset that I have experienced here. As if the sunset itself was not enough, the birds, all kinds of them, I think, realized that it was the Day of the Dead and they needed to hurry home to greet their dead relatives, for out of the grey of the high sky finches dropped almost directly at me in quick flitty flight to land inches and feet away from me in the big hackberry tree in the yard nextdoor (realize that I am positioned almost in the canopy of that tree - not ground level). I would spot a tiny image in the grey sky and it would quickly grow in size and appear to be headed right for me and at the very last minute it would seem to dodge me to land in the dark understory of the leaves of that hackberry - dozens and dozens of them - all talking to each other, excited to chat with their bedmates about the great times they had that day in the grass fields of the hillsides and valleys around SMA. There was flight after flight of egrets (mostly cattle egrets) heading from the day of feeding in the farmlands to their roost on the large presa, or lake, just out of view from the terrace. Then too, were the 5 varieties of flycatchers active in this immediate couple of blocks that flitted around chasing each other and claiming the best spot to perch and scan the darkening sky for the influx of small flying insects that began to emerge as the day was closing down. Thier characteristic flight up into the apparent empty sky a few yards from their perch would surely yield them the rewards of some small morsel - I could never see the small morsels that they were after. Then there was the quick smooth flight of a bat falcon right in front of me a few yards away as he headed for the bluffs and the bats that hang around there feasting on the beatles that use the thermals rolling up the bluffs of the mountain carry them into the valley to feast on the crops there.

As the sun was gliding behind those distant moiuntains flight after flight of white-winged doves coming in from all directions headed, bullet-like, to a group of trees in Parque Juarez a few blocks from my perch, and over to the north was a flight of white-faced ibis headed, I am sure, for the same roost as the egrets out someplace on the Presa.

Cowbirds and grackles, swallows and hummingbirds, feral pigeons and house sparrows - so many birds were, for some reason, more evident to me those few precious moments then any evening that I have spent in that wonderful place that I call my retreat - the rooftop terrace of Maricela's Guest House - was it the physical manifestation of the many souls coming home for their annual return home to the feasts that have been placed for them by their living loved ones. It was the Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) all over Mexico.

How I wish that I could have shared that wonderful experince with my birding compadres - my loved ones - my family - God has been truely good to me!

Good night and love to each and everyone who reads this post!

San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico

I need to write some enrties in this blog!!

Tonight is Halloween and a part of the Dia de los Muertos celebration. This is such a big thing here in Mexico. I have been about the center of town since about 5:30 pm and just needed to get to bed, as it is now 10:30 pm (or rather 11:30 if didn't move my clock back for daylight savings time). I wish that I had a camera, but my three were taken in two bags last month shortly after we arrived here and I have yet to get any replacement camera. Therefore, I will try to describe the scene verbally, particularly for those of my followers not at all familier with Mexican culture. I cheated and found some images on the internet that represent some tiny bit of what I saw :(

To begin with, El Dia de los Muertos has its roots in the beliefs and rituals of the Aztecs, one of the major indiginous peoples who lived in central Mexico over 500 years ago. The Aztecs believed that dead relatives returned home once a year to seek nurishment and community. Basically, Dia de los Muertos is set aside to remember those who have died. The custom is to invite the deceased to come home on this day to visit the living, so an altar is created and certain items used in it's construction, each item playing a significant part in the whole structure. There are marigold flowers - the floral carpet leads the souls back home and the marigold is believed to carry the smell of death, incense of copal (a woody aroma) helps lead to lead the departed to the Ofrenda or offering, candles also provide a guiding light for the soulsphotos or images of the deceased give the dead a feeling of being back home again, and there are objects that the deceased liked, salt is displayed to remind us of the basic elements that we will all return some day, foods, alcoholic beverages and candies (sugar skull and catrina figures remininding us of life's fragility) are placed to feed the dead - it is believed that the spirit receives nurishment from the smells and then the food is shared by the family, and then there are hundreds of paper sheets that have cutouts of skeletons, flowers, birds, and coffins and they are hung overhead or on the backgrounds.

So these altars are in many of the stores, homes, and public places around town (actually all over Mexico). On the public square (El Jardin) there are altars for many of the national heroes and figures. These are larger altars are manned by people dressed as the hero or as guardians. Each of these larger altars is layed out on the pavement in a 12 x 12 square and images are created using corn and other grains, beans, etc. The images are them edged with yellow marigolds.

The next thing are the catrina dolls and costumes. When the dead return they return in thier finest clothes, but they are only a skeleton. Therefore, a popular costume for this day (and halloween is a big costume day here) are the catrina costumes - most of the catrina women wear a long dark colored dress (often of Victorian vintage) with large brimmed hats sporting feathers and stuff. As you recall these represent the dead, so the face is painted white in the image of a skull (black for eye sockets and teeth showing) the arms are often white with bones drawn on them. The men typically are dressed in tuxedos or black suits and a white skull face is used, as well. These catrina characters will parade into the square amid clamorous music and pomp and then mill around the crowds in the square. A large majority of the people with costumes will have their faces painted. Usually it will be one side of the face with the white skull and the other side normal. There will be other costume, as well.

Then there are the costumes of the indiginous people dressed in the garb of the Aztecs with incredible feather headdresses - today feathers are predominately pheasant, peacock, and other domesticated foul, but originally the feathers were from some of the spectacular birds of the region. The rest of the attire is a mix of leather and colorful woven fabrics. Then there are the indiginous tribes of northern Mexico, particularly the Apaches, and their garb is quite different. They are clad in animal skins, skulls, and horns and eagle feathers. Their dances are more primative than the dances of the Aztecs. In both cases there are sounds eminating from these groups that are immitating sounds of nature: flutes and whistles and drums and rattles and horns and clay vases - all used to create so many different sounds in an erie kind of way. Around their ankles are large wraps that have attached dozens of large seed pods that create a rattling sound when they walk. This part of the square is in front of the parroquia or main parrish church of the community. Mingling all around the square until midnight are children in costumes and bags begging for candys and treats (So now I know why the hispanic trick-r-treaters in our neighborhood come around so late). It is quite a festive scene.

Of course the square is also full of mariachi bands playing to anyone willing to toss some coins their way. So from one side of the square are mariachis and on the other side is the indiginous sounds, and on another are the sounds of contemporay music form a nearby bar and the sound of children. A constant change is focus.

The square is also adorned with cutout papers of every color imaginable. The whole sight and sound was an overload to the senses.

After I had enough of the festivities I headed to Joseph's place to listen to Bob Livinston play a solo set or two of progressive country and then to jamb with a great local blues band for the rest of his second set. Great, fun musical entertainment!

After a long time away

I must get back to my blog entries - I am so sorry for being so distant. I made it home to Houston from the Kingdom, but was there only a few days before I headed out for Mexico; San Miguel de Allende, to be precise. Anyway, Houston was a whirlwind of activities (haircut, credit unions, etc), but while there I realized just how much there is to do there, to get things back in order. That old house is just too much for a single woman, Carolyn, to manage well. When I get back there for a long visit I will have a ton of projects to get into (just on the outside). I do love that old house, though.

At any rate, the trip to San Miguel de Allende, was uneventful. The flight on Continental was delayed about 30 minutes so that the pilot could arrive to fly us :) Once to Leon it was an hour taxi ride to SMA. The driver was a student in architecture (4th year), so he was able to tell a lot about the architecture and the land, as well. He talked the whole way to SMA - which was great! The hotel was the Mirasol -I recommend it - on the edge of the Centro - our friends, the Hickey's told us about it. Stayed at the Mirasol for two nights and tthen moved to an studio apartment in Colonia San Antonio. It was marginable. Paid up until the 17th of October, at which point am heading for a B&B for a few nights, while I look for another short term rental on a studio apartment. Don't know when I will be heading back to the KSA, but I expect sometime in November or early December. I'll be here until it is time to go. Carolyn, on the other hand, is staying in Texas.

Weather here is beautiful - daily highs in the 70's and nightime lows in the upper 40's (although the last couple of nights have been in the low 40's). Days usually start off a little cloudy, but clear off by noon and the rest of the day is sunny. This is the Central Highlands of Mexico. About 5000 feet above sea level. The habitat is largely semi arid with numerous mountain ranges amid a series of flat valleys or plains. This is the bread basket of Mexico - lots of agricultural activities all around this part of Mexico. On the tops of the taller mountains ranges the habitat changes to a conifer forest (small conifers). The valley and plateau are a scruby savanah with numerous different grasses, cacti, and low trees, mostly of the acacia family (mesquite, huisatche, pepper tree, etc.). The density of the brush is greatest along the arroyas (creek beds) and up on the hillsides away from human development. Some of the scenery is quite beautiful and pastoral - wish I had a camera to capture the scenes.

So far my naturalist observations have been from the rooftop of this apartment into the neighborhood, a local park not too far from here, and several walks across some undeveloped fields to the Mega Store on the edge of town about a mile from the apartment; or from the bus on my way to Mexico City. Most of my observations have been focused on bird life - my only sightings of any other wildlife was a six-lined race runner lizard (or something akin to it) - no mammals or other reptiles/amphibians of any kind :(, and some of the native flora mentioned above. So here is a liost of my avian sightings so far: Flycatchers - Great Western Flycatcher, Great Eastern Flycatcher, Kissadee, Vermillion Flycatcher, Gray Flycatcher, and several yet to be identified; himmingbirds - Broad-billed and Rufous are the only two that I have positively identified, but there are many others, particularly the females, that are difficult to separate; doves - White-wing, Inca, and Common Ground Doves; Orioles - Altimira and Bullock's; Curved-bill Thrasher; Tanagers; Barn Swallows; several unidentified swifts and swallows or martins; wrens - Cactus and Benwick's; various inidentified field sparrows and warblers; Pine Siskin; Great-tailed Grackles; Yellow Capped Woodpeckers; Indigo Bunting (caged in a restaurant - sad); egrets - Snowy, Cattle, and American Egrets; unspecified Cormorants; White Pelican; Black Vulture; Raven; Cowbirds; unspecified Grebes and Ducks (too far off to see clearly); Grooved-bill Anis; and the typical human hanger-ons - House Sparrows, House Finches, Feral Pigeons, and Starlings. Interestingly, I have spotted no raptors.

I would like to get out into the countryside - up some of the creek beds and nearby lake and up to some higher elevations on the nearby mountains in the conifer forests; and a nearby ecological preserve. Better yet, I would like to travel down into Oaxaca and Chiapas for some of the true tropical and jungle birds found there. Then there is the Yucatan Peninsula and the Caribbean Coast and the Pacific Coast for seabirds, waders and other passserines. If I stay until January I will most definitely make one or more of those side trips. The busses here are fantastic.

Heading home

This is my last day here in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia for a while. I leave here and hope that my contract is negotiated to my liking, so that I can come back to work on this project. Nothing is certain until I sign the cantract. I anticipate about a month for the date that this current contract ends (27 September). In the meantime, I am looking forward to some quality time with my family, particularly, Carolyn. I will surely miss the people that I leave behind here, but I trust that I will be back, so this will be a brief interlude. If, though, I can't return, then I will be saddened by the separation from these good folks. Oh, have I had an interesting time here. There are so many things that I have availed myself to. Diving, fishing, birding, art, line dancing, natural history, architecture, writing, parties, etc. and etc. Through these activities I have made so many really good friends. Fortunately, things like Facebook, blogging and such make these separations more manageable and tolerable.

My plane leaves out of Bahrain at 11:20 tonight and I stil have a lot of things to attend to, so goodbye for now.